A company's "social responsibility" isn't always clear cut, even when it comes to working children.

by Martha Nichols

Jonathan Stein, the new vice president of international contracts for Timothy & Thomas North America, shifted restlessly in his plane seat. During his two-month swing through Asia, he'd been on more planes than he could remember, many of them far more uncomfortable than this flight back to Boston. But he couldn't forget the Pakistani girls who had looked no older than ten years old, sweeping the floor between the rows of sewing machines the women worked on.

In that plant in Lahore, the women and girls had been hard at work assembling T&T shorts - currently the hottest item in Timothy & Thomas's 40-year-old line of casual clothes. Like the rest of the company's products, the shorts had that wholesome American "feel good-look good" image.

But that image didn't fit the image of those girls at work, and the contradiction left Stein with a quandary. In keeping with Timothy &Thomas's reputation for social responsibility, the company's new Global Guidelines for Business Partners prohibited the use of child labor- with "child" defined as anyone under 14 or the compulsory school age. Until his trip to Asia, Stein had felt good about working for a company that valued employee empowerment and diversity. Yet when it came to Pakistan and other developing countries, he'd found the company's policies no help at all.

In Lahore, Stein had enjoyed the city itself, which was a thriving textile and market center. Its colorful bazaar, wedged between the opulently wealthy and extremely poor districts of the city, was full of silks and the hand-embroidered clothing Lahore was famous for . He had liked the desert landscape and bright white walls, all backed by a cold blue sky. When Stein first met Timothy & Thomas's Pakistani sourcing manager, on a taxi ride to one of the local plants, he was still distracted by so many new sights.

"I should warn you," said Yusuf Ahmed, the sourcing manager, just minutes after shaking Stein's hand. "There's some confusion about the guidelines."

Stein stopped admiring the scenery. "What do you mean?" "All the good contractors use kids. The little girls come to the plant with their mothers, and I know there are others on the machines who are younger than 14. That's just how it's done here."

"Haven't you told them they have to do it differently?" Stein's hands tensed on his knees. The taxi jounced through the narrow streets, no longer surrounded by the picturesque overflow from the bazaar.

"I'm not a cop, " Ahmed said. "Besides, I'm not sure you'd really want me to do that. The situation is more complicated than you think."

"What's complicated? You say contractors aren't in compliance, so contractors aren't in compliance, so we threaten to cut off the contracts until they are."

Ahmed leaned forward impatiently. "Do you realize how committed we are? We've got the Lahore contractors alone assembling half a million T&T products a year-at competitive prices, I can assure you."

"I know the numbers, " Stein said. "But that doesn't change the guidelines. We can't have kids in the plants, right?"

Ahmed wiped his brow. He looked more than hot under his neatly pressed collar and dark tie. Although he had gone to the University of Pennsylvania and worked in the United States. Yusuf Ahmed had been back in Pakistan as Timothy & Thomas's sourcing manager for the past two years.

"We're lucky to have these guys, if you want the truth," Ahmed said. "our contractors produce on time and with good quality, which is no small feat. They could set up somewhere else, but in their heart of hearts, many of these guys want to stay in Pakistan, to improve the quality of life a little bit, if they can, by bringing in jobs. Then here we come, the big company from the United States, saying we won't buy what they produce unless it comes incredibly cheap, but of course they have to follow our company guidelines, even if it' means that their costs go up-"

"Hold on," Stein broke in. "We have contractors in other countries who are complying with the guidelines, and they seem to be producing just fine."

Now the sourcing manager looked more tired than angry. "Sure. If we ask them to, the contractors here will fire any kids who are under 14. But that will affect at least 60 families, all of them very poor in the first place do you realize that? And the contractors will still want assurances from us. These guys will want to know that we'll pay our share, even if the price goes up and we have to renegotiate the contracts."

"How much are we talking about?" Stein asked. "The young kids who come with their mothers do more than you think. They are paid nothing, of course," Ahmed said. "Even the older ones on the machines get paid subminimum wages as trainees, so labor will go up by at least a third to pay adults minimum wage - or more for skilled work. Or if our contractors stick with the kids, they'll have to document that they're really 14. In Pakistan, you can't count on birth registrations, and I'm sure you've seen enough in Asia to know that most kids look younger than their real age." "So how could you tell they were too young?"

"You can tell." Ahmed shrugged. "With some it's hard, and maybe the only way to be certain is to have a
doctor examine them. The children themselves will lie. They'll say they're 14, because they need the work. What are their alternatives, really? They can hire themselves out as maids for almost nothing, or spend hours on embroidery at home, work that is not regulated at all. Or they can go to a carpet factory, would you like that any better?"
Stein shook his head. "I don't feel good about any of this."

The sourcing manager turned away. "I can't help you there. I don't agree with the guidelines, you know, but since I work for the company, I'll do what I'm told." Ahmed lit a cigarette and stared out the taxi's dirty window. "Forgive me for being blunt, but sometimes I don't know what you managers in Boston are thinking about, I really don't. As far as I'm concerned, imposing American values on the Third World just creates more problems. You have no idea what it's like to live in Pakistan, do you?"

"That's why I'm here."
'For one week. Fine. Then let me tell you about the reality. You don't know what those kids want." Ahmed unrolled the window. He raised his voice above the raucous street sounds outside. "We're not just talking about Pakistan. You can go to Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Brazil, Mexico, the Azores - you're a Timothy & Thomas man, so you know what I mean. You can go all over the world and find street kids hustling and trying to make some money. Don't you think any of them would rather be working for one of our contractors? I'd say we're doing everyone here a favor."
Stein didn't answer, since by then the taxi had screeched to a halt. However, at the first plant they visited, he still felt uneasy. All of the workers on the floor were girls or women, because working side by side with men was considered improper. Ahmed had explained that this plant owner provided separate buses to bring the women to work. Farhan Hanafi, who led them on a tour of the plant, also made clear to Stein that he provided meals for his workers and wages of 5,000 rupees a month, or about $200, for the skilled women -much more than the minimum wage of 1,200 rupees,, Hanafi insisted.

The plant floor wasn't dirty or overcrowded, but there was no heat. The women wore layers of long blouses over thin flowing pants, and many of their heads were covered with brightly woven shawls. Their bare hands, reddened in the cold room, still moved deftly around the mechanical needles, pushing the pre-cut pieces of cloth forward. He saw small girls winding thread on sewing-machine spools for their mothers. Some older girls squatted near piles of patterns and cast-off cloth, stacking and sorting, talking as they worked. They only became silent when Stein and the other men moved closer.

Yusuf Ahmed asked one of the girls some questions in Puni abi. The girl kept her head bowed down and answered in a low voice, shrugging her thin shoulders as she spoke. The girl was about the same height as Stein's eight-year-old daughter, and he had always considered Jessica small for her age.

"She says she likes to work here." Ahmed glanced at the plant owner. "Mr. Hanafi is very kind to them and pays them very well. They have a roof over their heads, and they can keep their hands clean. She's old enough, she claims, because all her friends are here, and they are all the same age. They are all very good workers, she wants Mr. Hanafi to know this."

"But why aren't they in school." Stein asked.

"The families need them to work," Ahmed said. "I think at least half-of the kids in Pakistan don't make it to primary school, and it's more important for boys to get an education, if the families can afford it."

Ahmed's answer depressed Stein even more. Based on the rest of his Asian trip, he knew conditions in this particular Pakistani plant weren't bad. He told himself that the workers were probably grateful for walls that kept out the grit and dry wind outside, for decent lighting and a clean concrete floor. Lahore wasn't Calcutta, of course, but Stein remembered the crowds of people in the poor district outside the plant, many sleeping or begging in the dirt. They had rolled to the slide just in time when their taxi honked through. The women were probably glad to have their young daughters inside with them, where the girls could also be useful.

But Stein imagined 60 Minutes sinking its teeth into this story - a real expose of how those, popular T&T shorts, brought to you by lovable, reliable Timothy & Thomas, were stitched together by poor Pakistani kids. It wouldn't play well in Poughkeepsie.

Now, on the plane back to Boston and company headquarters, Stein twisted around in his seat, trying to get comfortable. If he didn't renew the-Lahore contracts, the girls and their families would lose a major source of income. Or was that just a convenient rationale for looking the other way? After all, adhering to the company guidelines would send production costs for the T&T line, at least temporarily, through the roof. Timothy & Thomas's clothing empire was now scrambling to keep its edge in the North American and European markets. There were U.S. warehouses and stores depending on shipments of T&T products, Stein thought. A high volume of shorts and blouses that, to date, had been produced quickly and cheaply by the contractors in Lahore.

The Pakistani girls posed the first test of the Global Guidelines for Business Partners. Yet being on the cutting edge of company policy just made his decision more difficult. Jonathan Stein realized that he was now responsible for the outcome. Unfortunately, all the talk of values and social responsibility in the world didn't erase the bottom line.